The Willoughton Wanderer

Having been gifted a set of Bettys Tearoom vouchers by our family back in the spring, we finally managed to put them to good use this week with a visit to the famous Harrogate branch. It’s one of those places you always mean to go to but somehow never quite get around to — until someone gives you the perfect excuse.

Now, if you’ve ever been to Bettys, you’ll know that part of the experience begins before you even step inside. There’s a rather quirky queuing system on the pavement outside, where visitors shuffle forward in quiet anticipation of tea, cake, and all things delicious. On the day we visited, the breeze was certainly brisk enough to keep us moving — Yorkshire air with a bit of bite to it!

To their credit, the Maitre D’ was doing a fine job of keeping order, taking note of each party’s size and handing out menus to those waiting in line. A small but thoughtful touch — and one that makes the time pass quite pleasantly. When he reached us and saw we were a table for two, we were soon ushered inside ahead of the larger groups still waiting. Result!

Once seated in the warm glow of the tearoom, we took a proper look at the menu, though we’d already done most of the browsing while out in the queue. Bettys’ offerings are famously extensive — everything from breakfasts and light bites to hearty lunches, plus the dazzling array of cakes, tarts and patisserie glistening temptingly from the counter.

As it was lunchtime, Mrs Wanderer went for the bacon raclette while I opted for the haddock, salmon and prawn gratin, both accompanied by a side of tenderstem broccoli with garlic. Despite the place being absolutely heaving (and I do mean full to the brim), the service was smooth and cheerful, and the food arrived after a reasonable wait.

My gratin was excellent — generous in portion, rich and creamy beneath its golden layer of toasted breadcrumbs, and the fish perfectly cooked. Mrs Wanderer’s raclette looked equally inviting, a bubbling dish of comfort that matched the cosy surroundings.

The only slight hiccup came with the broccoli. It was, shall we say, more “stem” than “tender” — rather woody at the ends and not quite cooked through. When we mentioned it to our attentive waiter, he seemed genuinely surprised, saying the kitchen normally trims the tougher parts. Without hesitation, he took one portion off the bill as a gesture of goodwill. A small thing, but it spoke volumes about Bettys’ approach to service — attentive, fair, and quietly professional.

By the time we’d finished, the queue outside was still as long as ever, proof (if ever it were needed) that Bettys remains a Yorkshire institution for a reason. Between the polished service, the delicious food, and the nostalgic charm of the place, it’s easy to see why generations of visitors keep returning.

All in all, a lovely afternoon — even if it began with a slightly windswept wait on the pavement! We’ll definitely be back, perhaps next time for afternoon tea and a fat slice of something sweet.

Highly recommended.