The Willoughton Wanderer

After three decades of wandering through France, there’s one classic dish I’ve somehow never truly tried: steak tartare. I’d seen it countless times in bistros — vaguely unappetising mounds of minced beef next to golden frites, eaten enthusiastically but never looking like anything to write home about. This recipe flips that script. By hand-chopping the freshest beef and mixing it with sharp Dijon, tangy capers, crisp cornichons, and fragrant herbs, it gives this French favourite a modern, flavorful twist. It’s bold, elegant, and full of character — steak tartare done right.

Serves: 2

Ingredients

• 200 g beef tenderloin, very fresh, finely hand-chopped (not minced in a machine)
• 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
• 1 tbsp finely chopped shallot
• 1 tbsp small capers, drained and chopped
• 1 tbsp cornichons, finely diced
• 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
• 1–2 drops Tabasco sauce (optional, for heat)
• 1 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
• Sea salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• Olive oil, a drizzle (optional, for silkiness)

Method

1. Chill everything — keep the beef and a sharp knife in the fridge until the last moment.
2. Prepare the condiments: combine Dijon mustard, shallots, capers, cornichons, Worcestershire, Tabasco, and parsley in a small bowl.
3. Finely chop the beef by hand into small dice — avoid a food processor, which bruises the meat and alters the texture.
4. Mix gently: combine the beef with the condiment mix. Season generously with salt and pepper, adding a drizzle of olive oil if desired.
5. Plate immediately: shape into a neat mound or use a ring mould. Serve straight away while chilled and fresh.

To serve

• Best with hot toasted sourdough, thin rye bread, or frites.
• Could be accompanied by a simple green salad.
• For a more traditional presentation, you may top each portion with a fresh egg yolk or even a cured yolk for extra richness.

Steak tartare might have a reputation as a daring choice, but when it’s made with care, it’s pure culinary elegance. With its balance of freshness, acidity, and texture, this modern take on a French classic proves that simple ingredients can deliver extraordinary flavour. Whether served with toasted sourdough, crisp frites, or even topped with a silky egg yolk, it’s a dish that rewards boldness and celebrates the joy of eating well. Santé!

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