Date of visit: 9th and 10th March 2023
Having picked up a copy of chef Galton Blackiston’s book Hook Line Sinker last year, Mrs Wanderer and I thought it only right to pay homage in person with a stay at his Michelin-starred Morston Hall on the Norfolk coast.
We rolled up to the 17th-century hall on a snowy Thursday afternoon, just after check-in. A warm smile on the doorstep soon thawed us out and before long we were shown to our suite – Samphire – tucked away in the pavilion, a short stroll from the main house.
The suite itself is split-level, the bed perched up top with a couple of steps down to the sitting area. Two very comfortable armchairs faced the TV and French doors, which opened out onto a private terrace. Sadly, March’s grim weather meant no al fresco lounging this time, though a summer return may well be in order.
Dinner was announced for “6.15 for 7” – which at first sounded rather a stretch, but all made sense when we were ushered into the lounge for pre-dinner drinks and canapés. To our surprise and delight, none other than Galton himself appeared with our nibbles: Venison Tartare, Tempura Halibut, and his famous Wells Alpine Cookie. Each came with his own careful explanation before he vanished back to the kitchen to tend to the next round of guests. A lovely touch.
At seven sharp we were led into the restaurant – a bright conservatory space bolted onto the old hall – where the evening’s tasting menu awaited:
- Jerusalem Artichoke Velouté, Binham Blue, Lovage
- Chicken Liver Parfait, Cherry Gel, Parsley, Sourdough
- Hand Dived Orkney Scallop, Caramelised Cashew, XO Sauce
- White Asparagus, Wild Garlic, Winter Truffle, Morels
- Norwegian Skrei Cod, Crab, Baby Leek, Citrus Gel
- Middle White Suckling Pig, Celeriac, Burnt Apple Purée, Sauce Robert
- Lemon Posset, Blackberry Sorbet, Almond Crumble
- Chocolate Delice, Malt Ice Cream, Caramel
There was the option of a cheeseboard supplement (£17.50) and a wine flight (£90 per head), though we contented ourselves with a couple of bottles of New Zealand Eradus Pinot Noir.
The food? Superb. Exactly as one hopes from a Michelin-starred kitchen: inventive, balanced, and deeply satisfying. The whole experience is a leisurely affair – around three hours from start to finish – but the pauses between plates gave us time to sip, chat, and anticipate what was to come.
By 10.30 we were happily replete and strolled back across to our suite for a well-earned sleep.
Breakfast the next morning was just as impressive. After another cheery hello from Galton, we settled into the restaurant to browse the menu: the usual array of grapefruit, porridge, kippers, and smoked salmon with scrambled eggs, alongside the inevitable Full English. We both opted for the fry-up with poached eggs, which arrived piping hot, perfectly cooked, and refreshingly free of unnecessary herb sprinkles (we’ve suffered the “Michelin thyme treatment” elsewhere).
All too soon it was time to settle the bill – £590 in all for dinner with champagne and wine, bed, and breakfast. Certainly not a budget getaway, but for the cost of a week frying on a sun-lounger in Benidorm, I know which experience I’d rather have.
Would we go back? Without hesitation.
The Willoughton Wanderer 
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